Greece: birthplace of democracy, home of the Frappe

While I was on my work trip, I spent a few wonderful days in Athens, taking some annual leave. 

I fell in love with Greece earlier this year (the photo above was taken on Santorini).  The people are fun, the sights are amazing, the islands sensational, the food tasty and healthy.  It’s such a land of contrasts: at one level the Greeks are kinda crazy, and leave everything to the last minute – many would call them hopelessly organised.  Their favourite drink (ouzo aside) are frappes – cold milk drinks made from Nescafe – yet the depth of history and culture is intimidating and awe-inspiring. 

Even though it was coming into Winter, I didn’t mind.  I practically had Athens to myself, which was great, because last time I was there, I was driven around the whole time and didn’t get to know it very well.

If you are visiting Athens, I really recommend you do the following:

1. Sight number one is the Acropolis – hands down the most amazing thing.  I think it’s worth paying a bit extra and getting a room with a view of it, because there are few icons in the world that symbolic of ancient times – a true gem.  There’s a new museum opening up in 2008, too.

2. Don’t miss the National Archaeological Museum.  Full of treasures you’ll recognise.  It’s free on Sundays.  Other museums to see are the Benaki (free on Thursday) and the Museum of Cycladic Art.

3. Stay at the Ava Hotel.  It’s not rated No 1 on www.tripadviser.com for nothing – the staff are friendly and efficient, and the prices are great.  If you are planning a trip, make sure you visit that website for the best in accommodation, etc.  Real travellers giving their opinions. 

Also good is the Electra Palace Hotel in Plaka and, if you have the bucks, splurge at the Grande Bretagne.  If you don’t stay at the Grande Bretagne, at least grab a cappucino there and sit for an hour or two to rest.  It will cost you 7 euro, but it’s worth it because you get to check out all the well-heeled Greeks with the big hair and the jewelry to match.

4. Speaking of jewelry, there is some truly beautiful gold jewelry in Athens.  I buy ridiculous amounts of the stuff from a place in the Plaka called Byzantino.  It’s at 120 Adrianou Street, and make sure you speak to Laura (her day off is Saturday).  See their website at www.byzantino.com

5. There are some wonderful places to eat.  I love Psarras, which is a couple of blocks behind Adrianou Street closer to the Acropolis.  With Byzantino on your right, head up Adrianou St, turn right and then right again.  Go past the car park on your left, and then up the ramp on the left.  Psarras is at the top of the ramp, on the right.  They do great seafood, but make sure you try the zucchini balls and the cretan salad.  I also recommend Xynos Tavern at 4 Agellou Geronta Street in Plaka.  It’s a bit harder to find – go up Kydathineon Street and turn left after Byzantino Tavern.  Turn then into a small street on your left and you’ll see a courtyard.  The food is traditional and fantastic.  Try the lamb with tiny pasta and the moussaka.

The best souvlakis in Athens are at a place at 69 Mitropouleos Street in Monastiraki.

For something a little more upmarket, try Daphne’s, which is on the same street as the Ava Hotel, just where it meets Adrianou Street.  For dessert, make sure you have the baklava plate with the flavoured icecream.  It’s huge but incredible.

For a good coffee and friendly service, try ThalaSea, which is on the same square as Byzantino Taverna (also a great place to eat), on the other side.  It’s near the Starbucks…just keep walking past the chain store though and get some real coffee.

6. If you have the energy for some other old sites, hit the Ancient Agora.  If you’re there on a Sunday, go to the Flea Markets in Monastiraki as well.

7.  The Greeks make a wonderful natural skin care range called Korres.  There are a few dedicated stores in Athens, and also a large section at the bottom of the Attica Department store.  It’s worth picking some up, and for a much lower price than at home.

8.  Don’t overlook some of the inland areas in Greece (a lot of visitors just fly through Athens on their way to the islands, and miss a lot of history and beauty on the mainland).  If you can, visit Delphi and see the Monastery at Ossious Loukas on the way there.  I think the monastery was the highlight for me – stunning scenery.  Just gorgeous, and unexpectedly so.  Cape Sounio is also an easy half-day trip to see the Temple of Poseidon, and to drive along the Aegean coast.

Next time I visit in May 2008, I’ll go to Olympia, Corinth, the Meteora, and Thessaloniki.

 9. If you want to quickly head to an island, take the ferry from Piraeus to Hydra (pronounced ee-dra).  There are a couple of great places to eat there.  Walk away from the main port towards the left (ie as you face out to the water).  Soon on your right you will see the Sunset Restaurant near the battlements.  Amazing food, and brilliant views of the sunset.  Even more special, if you keep walking for another 10 mins to the next town, is Katerina Taverna.  It’s small and mainly locals eat there.  The last time I was there, we went into the kitchen and checked out the fresh red mullet (barbounia – or “king of fish”) that had been caught that morning (the fisherman was relaxing in the restaurant).  We had it fried with lemon squeezed on top, with salad, fries and the best taramosalata I had in Greece.

10. A guy called Matt Barrett writes a Greek Travel blog, which is useful but a little out of date.  Check it out at www.greektravel.com

Travel: Expanding the Mind

I must apologise for being such a remiss blogger for a few weeks.  I went overseas for work (Europe and Asia) and arrived back with both the flu and terrible jetlag.  This despite the fact that a great friend had told me to take loads of Melatonin and I should be at least part human at the other end.

I worked a full day before heading to the airport.  I am lucky enough to be at the top rung of my Frequent Flyer program, so enjoy the First Class lounge even though we only paid for Business Class.  Ahhhhhh.  I could LIVE in that lounge. 

My saddest moment for November was finding out I didn’t get an upgrade on the plane.  I coped, but it was tough.

After a long journey, it turns out my bag decided to take the long way around and it arrived well after I did, worse for the wear (it’s a wonderful Mandarina Duck, and the journey had caused it to part company with one of its zipper tags, making it hard to close).

I was lucky enough to go to both Amsterdam and to Brussels on my trip, and eminently prefer Amsterdam.  It’s an incredibly easy place to get around, and is very pretty.  The locals speak amazing English, and are very friendly.

The Dutch had rather an odd relationship with Process, though.  A great friend of mine, Jan, who is Dutch, tells me that, in WWII, the Dutch shipped off more Jews to concentration camps than any other country outside the Germans.  He reckons that this is because the Dutch are great at process: it was three years before they decided to question the morality of what they were doing and cut it out.  All this doesn’t diminish the fantastic resistance movement in Holland, but it makes you think.  Anyhow, they have a great love of process, and still today I do notice they don’t tend to question it, but rather think it is the salvation of all.

One thing that I didn’t know before I left home was how much the Dutch and the Belgians hated each other.  I thought these were two fairly innocuous nations but noooooo…their rivalry is steeped in history, and even Belgium itself is a nation divided between the French (poor) and Flemish/Dutch (wealthy) parts of the nation.

I was fortunate enough to be entertained by both ends of this spectrum.  The Dutch I spent time with were rather more light hearted: they told me that, of all the people in Europe, the nations that had the least in common with the Dutch were the Belgians and the Italians.  They warned me that the guy I was visiting in Brussels was a little difficult, and offered to help where they could.

In Brussels, the Belgians I met were different: they laughed smugly at the Dutch and had a superior air that was downright annoying.  I was “entertained” over lunch in a stuffy in-house dining room, and they assured me that the two things they hated most about the Dutch were (i) their existence and (ii) that they are Dutch.

I bought some chocolate and high-tailed it outta there.